Northern Thailand, with its hills and invigorating breezes, feels culturally distinct from the rest of the kingdom. From the 13th to 18th century, the Northern provinces made up the kingdom of Lanna, which has its own, art, architectural styles and language, while local hill-tribes, with their distinctive customs and costumes added to the cultural mix. The region was once part of the Golden Triangle, where illegal poppies were farmed. But King Rama IX helped locals to diversify into other crops so fruit and vegetables now thrive where opium once flourished.
Now Chiang Mai and Chang Rai boast a laid-back atmosphere, amazing art-spaces, restaurants and attractions which can be enjoyed by anyone with a few days to spare. So, take a morning flight from Bangkok to Chiang Rai for a taste of Lanna.
Doi Tung Royal Villa and Mae Fah Luang Garden
A scenic drive from Chiang Rai’s Mae Fah Luang Airport is Doi Tung Royal Villa of the late Princess Mother. Located 1,630 metres above sea level, the villa built in 1987 evokes a Swiss Chalet, with a Lanna twist. The cool air makes Doi Tung the perfect place to grow temperate plants. At the Mae Fah Luang Garden, the late Princess Mother’s pride and joy, there are petunias, azalea and orchids growing with ornamental and rock gardens, with streams and statues adding to the beauty.
Ban Dam – Black House Museum
From Doi Tung, do stop by at Ban Dam, the masterpiece of Thailand’s national artist Thawan Duchanee (1939-2014). The museum boasts old Thai houses, Lanna carving and religious imagery juxtaposed with futuristic buildings. These art instalments make Ban Dam a showcase for the work of this much-missed creative mind.
The main building is the black house itself which resembles a temple and contains items of furniture, made up of buffalo horns, as well as crocodiles, snake skins and skulls. Some art lovers interpret Thawan Duchanee’s work as being a reminder…
